Pairing Wine with Burgers

Adapted from Burger Parties (Ten Speed Press, 2010) by James McNair and Jeffrey Starr

Because the Sutter Home philosophy is to demystify the food and wine experience, the last thing we want to do is to suggest that with any particular burger there is one certain appropriate wine. We all have different tastes. The bottom line is, if you like a certain food with a certain wine, that is really what it is all about.

That said, when it comes to pairing wine with food there is one key principle to remember: food can change the taste of wine. Have you ever brushed your teeth in the morning and then had a sip of orange juice soon afterwards? The sweet toothpaste changes the taste of the orange juice, making it more sour, even bitter, less sweet, and less fruity. Certain foods can have a similar impact on the taste of wine.

If the change is profound, then the wine will not taste its best. Foods that are sweet, spicy (such as chiles), or high in umami (meaty or savory dishes) can all make the taste of wine stronger. On the other hand, salt and acidity in food can be wine’s best friend. These tastes make wine taste milder, are less likely to impair the taste of wine and may, in fact, bring out its best.

Long known in Asia, umami is Japanese for “savory” or “meaty” and is one of our five basic tastes along with sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. It is found in protein-rich foods in the form of amino acid glutamates. Among foods that are high in umami are red meats, shellfish, mushrooms, tomatoes, potatoes, and cheese. Aging, curing, fermenting, and ripening foods increases the concentration of umami.

At the Sutter Home Culinary Center, when chefs prepare foods that are sweet, spicy, and high in umami, they balance the taste of those foods with a little salt or acidity, such as a squeeze of lemon, to bring the recipe into taste balance with the wines.

Because burgers dominant in sweet, spicy, or umami tastes, often found in Asian or Latin foods, can make wines taste strong, avoid pairing with the stronger wines.  Milder wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, are good choices. If the food is extremely sweet or spicy, mild wines with a touch of sweetness, such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, or White Zinfandel, are better yet.

Burgers that are slightly sweet or spicy or have a sweet-and-sour relish, condiment or spread, pair well with medium wines, such as Chardonnay, Sutter Home Red, White Merlot, or Zinfandel.

Burgers with classic European tastes, such as those with roots in French, Italian, Spanish, or Mediterranean cuisine, are not typically high in sweet, spicy, or umami tastes and thus will not adversely affect the bigger, stronger wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot.